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Jester966 said: Click to expand...
I have two AXA wedge-style tool posts in use on my 11" Emco lathe, one Aloris and one Dorian, and both are hardened and machined nicely. The finish is definitely better on the Dorian - a very nicely made post. There is very little play in them and they lock very solidly and do not loosen in use. The tool holders are also hardened and machined nicely. As Bob says, the tabbed washer between the two adjusting nuts on top of the holder tends to hold the settings well so the tool stays on center better. This allows them to repeat better than the Chinese tool holders I also have and I have no doubt about that.None of my tools chatter with the Aloris/Dorian holders or my Chinese holders. If there is a difference between the holders it would be that the Aloris holders tend to be slightly heavier and larger in general and the machining is more consistently good vs the Chinese holders. The screws tend to be high quality on the Aloris holders vs generic screws on the import holders.In terms of which of the posts is better, I think they are both just as good. If I had to choose only one I would probably choose the Dorian - everything is made finer, including the thread pitches used, and it just feels slightly smoother. The Aloris is nearly the same size but somehow feels more massive, even though it isn't. I just own them because I like good tools and I only want to buy them once.
Suggested reading:Carl some thoughts for you :
1.Be sure to run the spindle opposite direction of the grinding wheel.
2.cover the way and saddle with plastic, THEN cover that with wetted paper towels (or throw away rags).
The wet towel will stop the grinding dust from blowing around..immediately.
Also if you use a spray bottle to mist the work to cool it, the paper will help soak it up
3.use a soft wheel like a H or J if possible. (cooler running)
4. Turn your tool slide to 5.71 degrees.(Almost parallel to the spindle axis)
That way, you can feed in one thou on the Tool Feed Dial, and yet only move into the work .0001. ( which is .0002 on the diameter!)
Crosslide feeding is too course in many cases, and this helps.
5. IF you can, put a very rigid stop on the cross-slide so the cross-slide...NOT tool slide!.. can only go in so far up to the work piece, and no farther even when you try to force the crossfeed screw. this will load the slide forward and allow repeating your work..(I use a threading stop on my cross-slide to get me to 0 every time).
EXAMPLE...Now by feeding in the toolslide, say you take off .002 and say you want to back out..You use the cross slide for that..and when you go to return. run the cross slide back in upto the stop and you will be right back in the exact spot..and the tool slide will still represent the material you have removed.
6. Its a slow process, remember to "spark out", that is when nearing completion, let the wheel run till no more sparks are visible before you mike the part
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